We trudged three miles up this long hot main road of Abemama Atoll to visit the main town, Kariatebeke. R. L. Stevenson almost settled here, but sailed on to Samoa. We got terribly thirsty walking in the sun, finished the water we brought, and found no drinks for sale in the town! Takai, the local agricultural expert, took us to his house and gave us several coconuts to drink. Thank you, Takai!