"Arctracer" Letters

Update 12 - Last update aboard Arctracer - 15 April 2013

Hello hello!

I have been aboard Arctracer for 11 weeks as of today. I leave Trinidad for Brooklyn (by PLANE!) on Wednesday.

I'd planned on doing a few more updates for everyone, but instead, I am going to write a sort of stream-of-consciousness last email. I've started a blog, which will include all of my letters, as well as photos, some video, and various other stories. I'll send an email to you all when it is live. Then, of course, I'll be going through all of my footage over the next several months to see if I managed to get a film in there.

I'm not going to lie. Lately I've been feeling pretty desperate to get off of this freakin' boat. What I've figured out in the last couple weeks, though, is that if I have regular social interaction, I begin to relax and feel like I can stay in a place for an extended period of time. This makes me quite sure that I will be very happy upon my return to the "real world" when I can see all of my friends again!

In Suriname, I met Sofia and Ed, an older couple who have lived in their boat anchored off Domburg for the last 6 years. They were friendly and welcoming and Sofia and I bonded over our love of ice cream. Soon they will leave their "home" to live back in Holland so that they can be with their children and grandchildren.

I also met David, who is purchasing Sofia & Ed's boat, "Argo," from them. A lovely man who has friends in Park Slope - perhaps I'll see him in Brooklyn one day.

They all introduced me to Erik and Neeta, who invited us to their home for a potluck dinner. Erik is a filmmaker and was happy to have me running my cameras the whole evening. They have a room that they rent out, so we were also able to meet Han and Cisca, who were in Suriname on holiday.

Such an amazing and inspiring group of people sharing food and wine and stories all evening.

I didn't want to leave, but...it was time to move on.

I was sick for the whole three day sail from Suriname to Tobago, but my spirits were immediately lifted when, upon arrival, I spied a little boat called "Twister," captained by Lars, who I had met in St. Helena nearly two months before. He had a big red beard and was from San Diego, which made me think of Rick. Unlike many of the other cruisers (including us), he took his kayak ashore rather than using the ferry in St. Helena, therefore providing less opportunities to run into him. I found myself noticing whether or not he was on his boat and wishing I could catch him paddling by and invite him aboard for a drink. I actually had a couple of opportunities, but got oddly shy at those moments and simply waved hello.

The one time I ran into him at "Ann's Place" (restaurant/wifi spot), he was with another singlehander and although I tried to seem alone and willing to join them in their activities, I also had the thought that the two young men might already have big plans involving UNmarried women. I hate to get in the way of such things! I wished them luck on their journeys and wandered off. It wasn't until Lars sailed away that I even noticed Stephen the Ferry Driver. ;)

Anyway, I regretted that I hadn't made a point of spending time with Lars in St. Helena, so when I saw that he was in Tobago, I was determined not to have any regrets.

There were a few steps involved, but I found myself invited to hang out with him (now without big red beard), Mark & Maria (from "Mare Liberum") and Fran & John aboard their beautiful trimaran "Ninth Charm." That night I confessed that I knew of "Ninth Charm" before seeing them. I had googled Stephen the Ferry Driver and found a blog post by Fran about her flirtations with him, confirming that I wasn't the only girl who found him charming. It should be apparent by now that this sailing community is a small one...

For several days in Tobago I latched on to my new friends. We ate together and drank together and swam and snorkeled together. Maria got me home one night when I had too much to drink and later became my local "partner in ice cream". Lars joined me and Mom & Jerry one night when we went to Turtle Beach to watch a big mama leatherback laying her eggs. When "Arctracer" was ready to leave for Trindad and "Twister" was ready to head to Cuba, Lars and I even went to Immigration and Customs together.

For a few days I was distracted from my homesickness and cabin fever. I have no idea if I will ever see any of my new friends again, but I do know that I'll never forget them and that if any knocked on my door I'd throw my arms around them and welcome them in.

As I think back to all the traveling I've done throughout my life, what always stands out most are the people I've met. Vincent in Germany. Miles & Laurie in Costa Rica. Geraint in New Zealand. Ian in London. Mai-Britt in Estonia. Alexei in Moscow. Countless people across the US and the world - some of you on this email - hi!

Some people enjoy sailing. Some enjoy the long passages. Some enjoy the water. Some enjoy the solitude. For me, though, those aspects of the trip were things that I endured in order to have the best and most memorable portions of my nearly 3-month voyage - the people who I've met and connected with.

Thank YOU for joining me along the way! Let's reconnect.

Fair winds and following seas,

Sailor Hilary